Day Ten

Today began early at 6.30 as the electricity came on. I had left my bedside light on when it went off last night. Still I switched it off and turned over - but no sleep, so another few pages of the book before getting up. A buffet breakfast with some cornflakes was a good start, and we met up with Kinley who had been able to stay in one of the ground floor rooms. So much for there being no room for us - suddenly there seems to be at least two vacant ones. Our first stop was the Black-necked Crane Centre. It is a circular building with big picture windows overlooking the marshy area where the cranes come to over-winter. They left in the middle of March. The Warden was very helpful and decided to show us the film about the cranes made about ten years ago, immediately as there was going to be a meeting in the room. The curtains were duly drawn and the video switched on. The film was excellent - well made and very informative. Since it was made, when numbers were declining, the cranes have made something of a comeback. Their numbers have increased from 106 in the early nineties to 370 in 2006/07. More information about the Black-necked Cranes can be found here. After our visit we had to start our long journey back to Thimpu.
Our first stop was to be the Dzong at Wangdi Phodrang. As we were leaving the valley, a hoopoe landed on the fence just beside the car, but flew off before either of us could take its picture. Then, we were held up by some men from the restoration project loading huge tree trunks on to one of the big Indian style trucks. Soon we were on our way again out of the valley; driving over a small pass, then down into the Wangdi area. We got to Wangdi at 12.15 and Kinley wanted us to have lunch, but it wasn't ready, so we went off to see the Dzong. This is very old - dating from 1638. It has suffered a lot from earthquakes; the last in 1897 has left it very unsafe. Kinley told us that plans were afoot for a complete renovation in the next few years. We went all the way inside to a great hall high up in the Dzong, with a fabulous view out over the bigger of the two rivers. We also stopped by the young monks’ study/hall/dining room where they had just been served butter tea and rice. As we were leaving, Alan and Kinley started talking to some young monks, one of whom had a bamboo ‘penny whistle’. He gave them a demonstration of how he played it and Kinley told us that this is how they start playing the flute for the ceremonies as they have to learn how to play without a break. Soon it was time to leave again, and we walked back up the hill to our restaurant for lunch. After our rather monotonous food in the Rinchenling, this was good - Alan had some chicken for a change; there was also peas, asparagus, baby courgettes, and warm toms, cucumber and apple salad.
Now we set off again, to find the bank where Alan could change some dollars. We drove round to the place where Kinley had gone to school - we think - and eventually found the bank, which closed at 1pm. Still, Kinley persuaded them to let Alan change the money, and after endless to-ing and fro-ing, he got some Niltrum. So we headed for the checkpoint, and we were soon on our way to Thimpu. A bit further along the way, we spotted a lone macaque in a tree, which we watched for a few minutes. Then it was the long climb out of the valley up to Dochu la and a cup of tea at the restaurant. Sadly the wonderful view we had had on the way to Wangdi was totally obscured by the smoke from the forest fire. But the tea was very refreshing. Kinley and Tsering had butter tea, made with cow's butter, not yak's. It smells just as it should - of tea with butter in it. At last we were in Thimpu, arriving about 5pm. Back to the Wangchuck Hotel and a new room - 208. Kinley arranged to meet us at 9am tomorrow, then headed off home. We took a stroll into town. The square was alive with a fair, raising money for the Queen's charity. There were lots of stalls selling anything from plants to bamboo products, funfair games such as coconut shies etc. In the centre was the music area where we saw some young people showing off their skills at break dancing. We visited the bookshop and bought Joanna Lumley's book as well as the book written by the Queen - all for about £16. Dinner was at 7.30 and we ate next to a table of Russians, which was quite a surprise. There was a lovely different range of dishes including Thai rice, veggy noodles, pork with garlic, mushroom datse with chillies and fresh cucumber. The Russians insisted on having ema datse – the one with chillies; but the staff say that its not on the menu tonight! The Russians are drinking many toasts as is their tradition, so it will shortly be time to leave. Another full and interesting day - now there are only three left.

Blue Poppy Tours and Treks