Day Eleven

Last night was not good as we were a bit cold in the room and it was strangely noisy with dogs and cement mixers. We met Kinley just before 9am to 'finish off' the sights of Thimpu. The plan was to start at the painting school, but the pupils were still in assembly, so we walked round the corner to the Folk Heritage Museum, but this was closed until 11am. As we walked back to the car we noticed that the students at the National Institute for Zorig Chusum (Painting School) were on their way to the classrooms; so we visited their exhibition, first. There were some wonderful figures from the festivals, as well as dolls in East Bhutan costume. Then we went to visit the classrooms where they were working on wood carving, metal work, drawing, painting, embroidery, weaving and sculpting. There was also a room where they were selling clothes made in the tailoring school. There were a couple of really beautiful jackets - one turquoise and gold, one with an elephant on the back, but these were not for sale. Soon it was time to move on, and as the museum was still closed, we made our way to the Post Office, where we visited the Philatelic room. Hundreds of stamps are on display, commemorating everything under the sun. We bought two sets - the National Emblems and the Traditional Dancers. From here we drove round the corner to the government handicraft emporium, which is a non-governmental organisation? It has many high quality crafts for sale. Here we found the lovely yak hair hats from Sakteng called shamo . We bought a small chilli pot made from rhododendron wood as we had been served honey in one this morning. Kinley recommended a CD of music for us. Now we could go to the N FH Museum. This was the Chief of the area's house, historically. It has been restored and is furnished as it would have been in the early 1900s. It was immensely interesting, not least as we discovered what the usual toilet arrangements were. At the top of the house, 3rd floor, there was the sleeping room and the altar room, where important guests would stay. Just off here was a small wooden room, built out from the building. An oblong box, fitted with a lid served as the private, only for guests, toilet. There was a wooden 'pipe' leading down to a pit at ground level. The family did not use this, but used the public toilet in the village as did all the inhabitants. There is access up a ladder to the roof, and a cooler, breezy area where grass was dried for winter fodder, among other things. Kinley told us that as a boy it was fun to sleep up there in the summer. Looking down we could see a traditional hot stone bath in the garden. At the other side, they had planted out the grounds with small crop fields, mostly potatoes. There was also a grinding wheel powered by water, the water then went on to turn the prayer wheel. This was a very interesting visit. The morning was gone, so we headed for the Conifer Restaurant for lunch. Alan was pleased to have fish and mince curry with his red rice and noodles. There was also potato datse, mixed veg and some tomato and cucumber salad. A minute square of cream caramel finished the meal. Tea and coffee was served, the latter being almost undrinkable according to Alan.
This afternoon we were able to visit Trashi Chhoe Dzong. This is not only the Dzong of Thimpu, but also the seat of government. The King has his offices in one of the buildings and ministries are scattered around outside. As we approached, it was hats off because we could see the national flag and we could only take photos of the dzong - not to the right as the King and the Royal Family are in temporary residence in the large assembly hall to the right. The Royal Palace, a bit up in the hills, is being renovated for the new king who took over from his father in January. Dad is just retired and is still 'on hand' to give the fifth king advice if needs be. The first entrance we passed was for the King and his ministers, we lesser mortals are allowed in at the second entrance, where Kinley registered us and we walked through an airport style security gate. Alan and I set it off with our camera bags, but no-one batted an eyelid. Kinley led us up a flight of stairs and as we turned the corner a vast courtyard comes into view. Opposite us was a long line of prayer wheels, the longest we've seen, and the buildings seem very large. To the right is the main temple housing a two storey high statue of Sakyamuna, the Historical Buddha. We entered, to discover that there is a renovation taking place, not as extensive as at Gantey Goempa, but still impressive. The artisans were busy painting pillars and temple furniture, with coloured and gold paints. We came out into the sunshine and crossed the huge courtyard where they hold the Thimpu Festival to take a look in the Lhakhang Sarpa with its many carvings. Upstairs we found two monks, one washing small brass cups; the other making butter sculptures like the monk at Bumthang. Out in the courtyard again, Kinley explained how the two Thondrols are raised up the side of this building and the huge utse (tower) at the festival. Each meter they are raised, the trumpets are sounded. He says it is very impressive. Three young monks came walking across the courtyard and we took their photographs, and then showed them. They were quite amused. Then we were on our way again, walking back to the car, admiring the rose beds. As we had finished, we thought we would go back to the hotel, but Kinley and Tsering decided to take us up to a small nunnery, which had suffered in a fire four years ago. It had been rebuilt, but we couldn't really get in to see anything, so back in the car, we took a roundabout route back. Then we were stopped as the road was closed. As we had to turn back, I asked if we could go back up the hill to a house with an interesting mural, much to K and T's amusement. They explained that the dragon was for prosperity and the penis was for fertility. We had seen several of these all over the country on all sorts of houses. It is just normal in Bhutan. At last we got back to the hotel, made arrangements for the morning and bade farewell to Kinley. We learned that he is an avid Manchester United fan and there was a match on the television!
We took our stuff upstairs, then got organised to go out into town. In the square the fair was in full swing again. We walked up the steps and along to the police traffic control roundabout. A left turn took us up to some steps, and there in front of us is the Swiss Bakery. Why not pop in for a decent cup of coffee and a cake? The guide book highly recommends this cafe, established in 1970. It lived up to expectations, as we enjoyed excellent coffee, chocolate cake and chocolate éclair. Thus fortified we wandered around, first finding the Hong Kong market, not too exciting; located the Seasons Restaurant cum bar; then down to Mendayla Sweets, which sells Indian style sweets. We weren't too sure which shop it was, but nothing even came close to the wonderful shop in Guwahati. Close by we found a lovely little garden in a tiny space by the road. It was full of wild flowers as well as a lovely poppy. Back onto Norzin Lam, we wandered along up to World Music, opposite the Craft Emporium. Alan asked if they had any instrumental music - we were really looking for 'the yak song' Kinley had on his phone. Clearly we were in the wrong place as their music was all vocal and pop or film music. Still the helpful assistant suggested we try the shop in the Norling Centre. So back down the road again, and there the man showed and played us a CD of Bhutanese music played on traditional instruments - flute (lyem), lute (draymen) and yangchen - a 72 stringed instrument struck lightly with two thin bamboo sticks. This sounds lovely so we bought a copy; but still no ‘Song of the Yak’. More handicraft shops were scrutinised all along the road, but no more purchases.
Back at the Wangchuck Hotel, we ordered tea and sat in reception writing and reading. After, we went up to our room to sort out things ready for our walk tomorrow and also leaving for Paro. At 7.15 we got a call about dinner, only it wasn't clear what. Soon our friendly waiter came up asking us did we want dinner in the room - well, there's hardly room for that. So, we were asked to come for dinner at 7.30. When we appeared, it was obvious that we are the only takers, tonight. We ate dinner -very delicious, under the eagle eye of the dining room staff, who were waiting for us to eat and leave so they could go home. All a bit unnerving. Then we sat in reception again, finishing off this story.

Blue Poppy Tours and Treks