Day Eight

We arranged a slightly later start (8.15) and stopped in Jakar for some bottled water (only Nu 15 instead of 25 in the Lodge). We were off to Ura for the third day of the festival. We stopped just before the chorten pass to spot where we had had our picnic yesterday in the binos – Tsering was delighted! When we arrived in Ura there were far fewer tourists and more villagers than on Monday. We found a spot to sit on the wall and had a very good view of proceedings. The Deer dance was about to start as we got settled on the carpet Kinley had borrowed from the lodge. There were some other tourists there from Blue Poppy, but they were also discreet and quiet. The ladies sang a song and danced; and then two people performed a dance behind a curtain in the doorway of the monastery. Occasionally the curtain was held back to give us a glimpse, then halfway through, the monkey and the red ox appeared and came down on to the dance ground, to complete their performance. More ladies danced, then the tea ceremony was announced, which we had attended on Monday. The other group went in to this and really enjoyed it. Then, the big bugles sounded through an upstairs window; and all the animals entered the square to start the Lord and Messengers of Death Dance. This was to go on for over two hours, so after a while, Kinley suggested we went on to the hillside for lunch. This was similar to previous picnics, but somehow the lodge had forgotten to pack the tea bags! So we had tea with tea leaves that Tsering had begged off some local people! As we went back to the festival, the Lord was being trumpeted in with big horns, drums and conch shells. Now a climax was reached as the bad hunter was caught, despite trying to escape, and was brought before the Lord. He was judged to be a real baddie, and eventually was carried off to torment! Now a second man was brought in for judgement. Predictably, he was eventually judged to be good and angels came and took him into the heavenly gate of the monastery. This was almost the end, but as he left, the whole village surged forward and lined up for a blessing from the Lord and the animals; avoiding the red clown who ‘blessed’ the girls and various females with a tap with the phallic symbol he carried! Eventually the band returned and led the remaining performers through the heavenly entrance to the monastery. We decided that that was quite a fitting end, and persuaded the lads it was time to return to Jakar so we could pack up ready for leaving in the morning.
Blue Poppy Tours and Treks