Day Four

This was a driving day as we had to get to Jakar in the Bumthang Valley – about 7hrs driving time. We began with a visit to Punakha market and the colourful local life with their national dress and interesting local produce. To follow was the long climb up to Pele La, the pass guarding the Trongsa valley. On this beautiful clear day we had a great view of the mountains. We had to stop at Wangdi Phodrang to get our passes stamped, so took some photos of the dzong, which we will visit on the way back. There was a crested kingfisher on the electricity cables by the bridge. With the formalities complete, we began the climb up into the mountains. As we got higher, the rhododendrons appeared again; and just before the pass we saw our first yaks and also a fantastic view of the Eastern Himalayas. We wondered if this included Jomulhari, maybe. Pele La (3420m) does not have a view, but we walked up the path by the short bamboo and found the view – and the loo! We drove over the pass and down and down the other side along hillsides covered with red rhododendrons and populated with yaks. Down by the river we found Chendebji Chorten, which is a copy of the huge Swayambhunath in Kathmandu. Our lunch spot was a stone’s throw from here at Urgyen Dorji Tabdea Restaurant. Another buffet with the usual variety of food awaited us and a view of the river and the mountains – it is a lovely spot. After lunch we had to drive on to Trongsa. This town at 2180m has another dzong perched on the cliff side. It keeps appearing and disappearing as you drive along the twisting road, teasing with spectacular views, then hiding until the car rounds a corner and there it is almost touching distance across the valley, only to disappear yet again. We reached the town and parked underneath the palace where the 3rd king was born, and Kinley checked us through another police point. We walked up into the town, looking in vain for a view of the dzong, but it was as illusive as ever. As we walked to the end of the street, we did find it, but the view was so covered with wires, it wasn’t worth taking a photograph. We had passed various hotels, shops and houses all built in the traditional style, and there was a cute child sitting on some steps. I took his photo and he promptly ran down the steps demanding to see it! Then, all his friends appeared out of nowhere, also wanting to see – and to have their photo taken!
Back in the car, Tsering drove us up to Yotangha Pass (3425m) with its chorten and prayer flags; down into the Chhume Valley; and then up to Kiki La (2860m). Just before the last pass, we stopped at a local weaver’s complex, with girls weaving in a shed by the road and plenty of stuff for the tourist to buy – but not us! Over the pass, we descended into the Chokhor Valley and on to Jakar (2580m), our destination. Due to the festival, our original lodgings were full, but we drove a little further on to Rinchenling Lodge. This is owned and run by a Dasho (honorary title bestowed by the king for good works for the national good). He has converted his house into a hotel with one large reception room doubling as sitting and dining room with its enormous wood burning stove. There are several rooms above, including the altar room, as well as on the ground floor, the kitchen and area for the staff, guides and drivers. Our room was in an L-shaped block built at the back containing a dozen or so rooms – all en suite. The room also has a small wood burning stove, which they lit on our arrival as it was a bit chilly. Soon it was very warm in the room and we showered before strolling across the garden to dinner. Outside there is a small garden where lovely blue iris are in bloom. There are also masses of blue iris by the entrance. This was rice, noodles, beef, carrots, nakey, bitter gourd and aubergines. Bodes well for the next few night we are spending here.

Blue Poppy Tors and Treks