Day One

After an uneventful flight into Kolkata, we cleared customs and went in search of DrukAir. We were too early, so had to wait to check in for about an hour. We queued up for security, only to be pushed through without it. But when we checked in, Alan went back with one of DrukAir's staff to get the regulation yellow band put round our bags. It was free seating, and as most people had come with the plane from Bangkok, there was no chance of a window seat, or of sitting close to each other. It was pretty cloudy going in, so we didn't miss the chance to see Jomulhari (7329m). Our first sight of Bhutan was the very pretty, traditional style terminal building. We were surprised as many people stopped to take photos, so I did, too. Formalities were soon completed and we found Kinley Dorji waiting for us. We were soon on our way with driver Pema and the first stop was up at a view point overlooking the airport, watching our plane take off again on its way to Katmandu, and the Paro (Ringpung) Dzong. Kinley then took us into town for a cup of tea and biscuits. This was at the cafe in town, but a load of tourists had got there already, so we sat in a back room with a view of the balcony on which they were drying meat and chillies - with accompanying aromas. After using the loos, it was time to make a move. This was out of town and up the mountain to Drukgyel Dzong - a ruined monastery above the village. We were dropped off and walked along a path towards the dzong, and suddenly realized that the men were holding an archery match across the area - shooting arrows at a tiny target 140m away. They play from both ends, leaving a few of the team at either end to watch the target. If one of the team hits the target, the rest of the team performs a song and dance, praising him. This seemed a rare thing, though many arrows were close - only once during the time we watched.
So we walked slowly up to the ruin. This walk gave us breathtaking views of the valley. The dzong dates from the 17th century, but in the early 50s there was a devastating fire and despite some half hearted efforts, restoration has not been undertaken. I climbed up on a bit of outcrop and managed to take some photos looking down on the archers. Not a place for Alan. While we were here, we saw a red minivet, just as we had seen in Assam. We made our way back down to the archers and the car, a Kia Sorrento, and Pema drove us back to the first cafe for lunch. On the way we had our first view of Tiger’s Nest, to which we will walk on the last day of the holiday. For lunch we ate red rice - a truly local dish, aubergine fritters, fish curry, beef curry, mixed veg and ferns. The ferns are like the Canadian fiddleheads we have had, and are called nakey in Bhutan. It was all very good and we finished with mandarins and tea or coffee. Alan needed to change some money, so we parked in town and he and Kinley disappeared onto the bank for a while. Now he could pay Kinley back for our lunchtime drinks.
Our next event was a visit to the Paro Dzong - a fortress type of building overlooking the town. Pema dropped us off and we walked down to the entrance, where there are fabulous murals. One of these depicted the story of the Four Friends; a fable known to all Bhutanese and we will see many representations of it throughout our holidays. We stepped into the courtyard and saw the vastness of the complex with its rows of prayer wheels in the wall. Oriole windows jut from the building and are beautifully painted with patterns, devices, dragons and suchlike. We walked on, then down steps to the next 'layer'. Here we could go into one of the rooms, no shoes, hat or cameras - and look around. Student monks were learning their lines and rehearsing for a ceremony. This included twirling the small yellow umbrella symbol and blowing horns. When we finished looking around, we made our way back out of the dzong, walked down to the river, the Pacchou. In the fields beside us there were brown and yellow bearded iris growing, with great big blooms – almost ‘Chelsea’ like! We crossed the river using the 17th century box bridge, spotting an Indian style truck parked on the other side, with an elephant painted in its side. Pema was waiting at the far side ready to whisk us on to the road to Thimpu. Due to its being upgraded, it is closed between 3pm and 6pm each weekday. The road is not much wider than Sheath Lane with a sandy or gravelly hard-ish shoulder of half a meter or so either side. To avoid oncoming traffic, the drivers politely blow the horn to make sure the other driver has seen them, then each move over a bit and slide passed each other. Overtaking is a similar manoeuvre, only after, the overtaker peeps a thank you to the other vehicle. It all makes for a noisy drive if there's a bit of traffic on the road. Due to the road works, there are lots of Tata trucks on the road billowing smoky exhausts at you. Also there are loads of workers on the road - many Indians and also Nepali refugees, who are breaking rocks and virtually making the road by hand - rather like we saw in Assam. It was hot, busy and noisy, and we were succumbing to jetlag. We arrived at our hotel, the Wangchuk, around 5pm, and tea and biscuits were served. Outside, the entrance is bordered with beds of blue iris. Kinley arranged to meet us at 9am the next morning and left. We showered, shaved etc. and staggered to dinner at 7pm after a short power cut. Dinner was a starter of soup, warmish chicken curry, fried dried fish, poppadoms, veggies, spinach and white rice. This was washed down with a shared large bottle of Red Panda Weiss beer. We finished with a tasty Indian dessert and more tea. Now we are completely knackered and its time for bed.

Blue Poppy Tours and Treks