Day Seven

Today we visited an area that even Kinley and Tsering didn’t know. Kinley planned that we should walk up to 4000m for a picnic; but visiting several monasteries on the way. We began with a drive something like a wadi bash to Tharpaling Jangchu Choling. This is a 14th century monastery, the most important of eight founded by Longchen Rabjampa, which has 100 monks, some of whom are meditating in a special building above the temple area. There are eight chortens overlooking the valley, commemorating major deeds in the life of the Sakyamuni Buddha. The assembly hall is on two floors: the lower floor has images of Shantara Kista, Guru Padmakara and King Tisong Detsen; flanked by Longchen Rabjampa and Jigme Longpa. Murals depicting twelve teachers of the Great Perfection, who preceded the Buddha, cover the walls. The upper floor was renovated by the first king and contains the statue of Samantabhadra in union with a consort, flanked by Guru Padmakara and Longchen Rabjampa.
We found a track winding up past the Chodrak Hermitage. This was founded in 1234 by Lorepa next to a cave where Guru Padmakara mediated. It was abandoned due to an invasion of demons, but exorcised and renovated in the 18th century. We walked on up the hillside to the Lorepa Lhakhang. As we approached, we came across a young lad washing clothes. There was a boy monk with him, whom he shooed away. This boy monk is the re-incarnation of the late chief abbot of Bhutan whose body lies unchanged since his death in the Thimpu Dzong. Inside, a monk took us into the two areas, separated by a large chorten. In one, Thukje Lhakhang, is the thousand armed Chenresig; in the other, Lorepa Lhakhang, images of Mahakarunika and Guru Padmakara. By the altar are two stones, one is the footprint of Guru Padmakara and the other is the skull of an angel. The latter, we were able to hold – it is indeed skull shaped, but very heavy.
We clambered further up to the highest Lhakhang on the hillside, Zhambala Lhakhang. Here is a newly built temple with a richly decorated chorten containing the remains of the Lama Nyoshel Khen Rinpoche. A curly haired monk who had just finished his meditation, told Kinley all about it, but the story was lost in translation. There is also an older shrine outside and above this; and a rock with a hole in it can grant people’s aspirations if you know how to read the handful of earth you pick up through it. A senior monk showed us the route up to the summit ridge and off we set in the warm sunshine. Kinley and I spotted a pica hiding under the bushes and the way was covered in familiar flowers and bushes. We got to the ridge (about 4000m), which is covered in prayer flags by 2pm. We picnicked and admired the view through Alan’s binos. Tsering was fascinated and kept spotting places he knew, and we had visited earlier, such as the Jakar Dzong. He also spotted the place where Pema Lingpa was born. We enjoyed seeing many of the snow covered mountains.
We descended down to the car, where Tsering managed to get our flask filled with hot water for tea. We then drove down to the valley and stopped for tea and biscuits at the King’s picnic ground at Hurji. Two men were camped here. It appeared they were travelling all over the country showing a film they had made. Then it was back to the Lodge Rinchenling.

Blue Poppy Tors and Treks